Full Ingredient Transparency
What We Left Out
14 categories of ingredients you will not find in any 1st Beauty Lab product, and why.
Most serums contain 20 to 40 ingredients. Ours contain seven to nine. That is not a limitation, it is a decision. Every ingredient we include has a specific, proven function. Every ingredient we exclude was a deliberate choice, made over five years of real-world testing in Claudia's treatment room in Vienna.
This page explains what we left out, why other brands use these ingredients, and why we chose differently. No scare tactics. No pseudoscience. Just honest decisions, openly shared.
Fragrance (Parfum)
What it is
A catch-all term that can hide hundreds of undisclosed synthetic chemicals. EU law requires labelling only 26 specific allergens. Everything else can stay hidden behind a single word on the INCI list.
Why brands use it
It makes products smell appealing. Scent triggers emotion and brand recognition. Some brands build their entire identity around a signature fragrance.
Why we left it out
Fragrance allergy affects up to 4.5% of the general population and 8 to 15% of people with contact dermatitis. The risk increases with age and cumulative exposure, exactly the profile of our customers. Claudia has seen fragrance reactions in her treatment room for thirty years. When your product contains only seven ingredients, there is nowhere for irritants to hide. So we do not include them.
What we use instead
Our serums smell like what they are: clean, cosmetic-grade actives in purified water. No masking fragrance needed.
Essential Oils
What it is
Concentrated plant extracts (lavender, tea tree, rose, citrus) that contain potent volatile compounds. Often marketed as "natural" alternatives to synthetic fragrance.
Why brands use it
They carry a "clean beauty" halo. Consumers associate plant-derived ingredients with safety. Some oils also have mild antimicrobial or soothing properties.
Why we left it out
Natural does not mean non-irritating. Essential oils contain known sensitizers like linalool, limonene, citral, and eugenol. Research shows they can cause the same allergic contact dermatitis as synthetic fragrance, sometimes worse, because consumers apply them liberally, trusting the "natural" label. We chose efficacy and tolerance over marketing appeal.
What we use instead
The only plant-derived component in our line is Tocopherol (Vitamin E), selected for its antioxidant function, not its scent.
Parabens
What it is
A family of preservatives (methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, and others) used since the 1950s to prevent microbial growth in cosmetics. Detected in nearly all urine samples of adults tested in large population studies.
Why brands use it
They are cheap, effective, and well-studied broad-spectrum preservatives. The cosmetics industry has relied on them for decades.
Why we left it out
Parabens are classified as endocrine-disrupting chemicals by the UN Environment Programme and the Danish Centre on Endocrine Disruptors. They mimic estrogen and can interfere with hormone balance, a concern that grows with cumulative, daily exposure across multiple products. For women over forty navigating hormonal changes, we believe the precautionary principle applies.
What we use instead
Phenoxyethanol and Ethylhexylglycerin: effective, well-tolerated, and hormonally inert. SILK NIACINAMIDE adds Sodium Benzoate for extra stability alongside its bio-based Pentylene Glycol.
Silicones
What it is
Synthetic polymers (dimethicone, cyclomethicone, cyclopentasiloxane) derived from silica. They form a smooth, silky film on the skin's surface.
Why brands use it
They make products feel luxurious and spreadable. They temporarily blur pores and fine lines, and they help foundations and primers glide on. Brands love them because they create an instant sensory improvement.
Why we left it out
Silicones are cosmetic trickery: they create the illusion of smooth, hydrated skin without actually delivering moisture or nutrients. The film they leave can trap other ingredients and dirt against the skin, and they require thorough cleansing to remove. For a serum designed to deliver active ingredients deep into skin, a silicone barrier is counterproductive. Every ingredient in our formula has a function. We do not include ingredients that only perform on the surface.
What we use instead
Our serums use Sodium Hyaluronate at three molecular weights for real, measurable hydration at multiple skin depths, not a temporary cosmetic effect.
Phthalates
What it is
A group of industrial plasticizers (DBP, DEHP, DEP) used in cosmetics to help fragrances last longer and to increase product flexibility. Often hidden within the "fragrance" disclosure, so they may not appear on the label at all.
Why brands use it
They make fragrance stick to skin. DEP is one of the most common fixatives in perfumery. They are also found in nail polish (DBP) and some hair sprays.
Why we left it out
Phthalates are confirmed endocrine disruptors. ECHA has identified five ortho-phthalates as substances of very high concern. The EU has banned DBP, BBP, and DEHP from cosmetics. Because we use no fragrance, we have no need for fixatives, which eliminates the most common route for phthalate exposure in skincare.
What we use instead
No fragrance means no fixatives means no phthalates. The simplicity of our formula is the safeguard.
Mineral Oils
What it is
Petroleum-derived hydrocarbons (Paraffinum Liquidum, Petrolatum, Mineral Oil) used as cheap occlusive moisturizers. They form a waterproof film on skin to reduce moisture loss.
Why brands use it
They are extremely inexpensive, stable, and effective at preventing trans-epidermal water loss. They have been a staple of pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations for over a century.
Why we left it out
Mineral oils contain two fractions: MOSH (saturated hydrocarbons) and MOAH (aromatic hydrocarbons). MOSH accumulates in human tissues, particularly the liver and lymph nodes. MOAH compounds, especially those with three or more aromatic rings, are suspected genotoxic carcinogens. The EU requires full refining history documentation, but trace contamination concerns persist. Beyond safety: mineral oils are occlusive fillers that block skin function without delivering any active benefit. Every ingredient must earn its place.
What we use instead
Glycerin and Propylene Glycol provide moisture-binding and delivery functions. Sodium Hyaluronate draws and holds water naturally.
PEGs (Polyethylene Glycols)
What it is
Petroleum-based compounds used as emulsifiers, thickeners, solvents, and penetration enhancers. Over 600 different PEG variants exist in cosmetics. They appear as PEG followed by a number (PEG-40, PEG-100, etc.) on ingredient lists.
Why brands use it
They are versatile workhorses: they dissolve ingredients, stabilize emulsions, and enhance the absorption of other actives. They are cheap and effective.
Why we left it out
PEGs are manufactured through ethoxylation, a process that can leave behind two concerning contaminants: ethylene oxide (classified as a known human carcinogen by IARC) and 1,4-dioxane (a probable carcinogen). These contaminants are not listed on labels because they are not intentionally added. They are manufacturing residues. PEGs also act as penetration enhancers, meaning they can push other ingredients deeper into skin. In a seven-ingredient formula with no toxicological concerns, we simply do not need them.
What we use instead
Our water-based formulations are inherently compatible. Actives are selected for their own solubility and bioavailability.
Sulfates
What it is
Aggressive surfactants (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate) primarily used in cleansers, shampoos, and foaming products.
Why brands use it
They create rich foam that consumers associate with cleansing power. They are extremely effective at removing oil and dirt, and extremely cheap.
Why we left it out
Sulfates strip the skin's natural lipid barrier, causing dryness and irritation. For skin that is already facing declining barrier function, sulfates would undermine everything our serums are designed to support. While sulfates are more common in cleansers than serums, we exclude them from our entire formulation philosophy as a matter of principle. No ingredient in our line should compromise skin barrier integrity.
What we use instead
Our serums are leave-on treatments, not cleansers. There is no need for surfactants of any kind.
Alcohol (Denat.)
What it is
Denatured ethanol, also listed as Alcohol Denat., SD Alcohol, or Isopropyl Alcohol. Used as a solvent and to create a fast-drying, lightweight feel. Not to be confused with fatty alcohols (cetyl, cetearyl), which are moisturizing.
Why brands use it
It makes products feel weightless and non-greasy. It also acts as a penetration enhancer, helping other ingredients absorb quickly. Some brands use it to create mattifying formulas.
Why we left it out
Drying alcohols dissolve the lipids that hold skin's barrier together. Repeated use compromises moisture retention, increases sensitivity, and can trigger a rebound oil production cycle. For skin that already faces declining barrier function, drying alcohols accelerate exactly the problems our serums aim to solve.
What we use instead
Our formulas absorb cleanly through precise concentrations and molecular weight optimisation, not through solvents that strip the skin to create a false sense of lightness.
Microplastics
What it is
Tiny synthetic polymer particles (polyethylene, polypropylene, nylon) added to cosmetics as exfoliants, film-formers, texture agents, or encapsulation materials. Once washed off, they enter waterways permanently.
Why brands use it
They provide consistent texture, controlled-release delivery, and uniform appearance. Microbeads create a smooth exfoliating experience. Microplastics also stabilize formulations and extend shelf life.
Why we left it out
Microplastics do not biodegrade. They accumulate in marine ecosystems, freshwater, soil, and ultimately in the food chain, including human tissue. The EU adopted Regulation 2023/2055 restricting intentionally added microplastics, with phased bans running through 2035 for cosmetics. We did not wait for legislation. Our serums have never contained synthetic polymer particles, and they never will.
What we use instead
Our airless pump dispenser eliminates the need for stabilizers or texture-modifying particles. The formula is designed to be effective as a liquid, not as a vehicle for plastic.
Artificial Thickeners
What it is
Synthetic gelling agents (Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) and other rheology modifiers used to give products a rich, creamy consistency. Many are acrylic acid polymers.
Why brands use it
Consumers equate thick texture with quality and concentration. Thickeners also improve product stability on shelves and make formulas easier to apply. They are inexpensive fillers that increase perceived value.
Why we left it out
Thickeners pad out the ingredient list without contributing to skin health. They exist to create a sensory expectation, not a result. Claudia's formulations are optimised for absorption and efficacy, not for jar appeal. Our serums have a lightweight, elegant texture that comes from the actives themselves, not from synthetic gel scaffolding.
What we use instead
The natural viscosity of concentrated Sodium Hyaluronate at 2.5% provides the right texture. Glycerin and Propylene Glycol contribute body without artificial thickening.
Colorants
What it is
Synthetic dyes (CI numbers, FD&C colors) or pigments added to give products an appealing colour. Ranges from subtle tints to vivid hues.
Why brands use it
Colour creates shelf appeal and brand identity. It signals freshness, luxury, or specific benefits (green for "soothing," gold for "anti-aging"). Some brands use colour to mask ingredient discoloration.
Why we left it out
Colorants have zero skincare function. They exist entirely for marketing. Some synthetic dyes are known sensitizers, and others may contain impurities of concern. Our serums look like what they are: clear to slightly amber, depending on the active ingredients. If you need a dye to make your product look premium, the problem is not the colour.
What we use instead
Transparency. Our serums' natural appearance reflects their composition honestly.
Gluten
What it is
Wheat-derived proteins and hydrolyzed wheat compounds (Triticum Vulgare, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein) sometimes used in skincare for their film-forming and moisturizing properties.
Why brands use it
Hydrolyzed wheat protein provides conditioning and smoothing effects. Wheat germ oil is used for its Vitamin E content. These ingredients are cheap and multifunctional.
Why we left it out
While topical gluten exposure is not a concern for most people, it matters for the subset of our customers with celiac disease or gluten sensitivity who prefer to avoid any contact. Some dermatologists also note that wheat-derived ingredients near the mouth or eyes can be inadvertently ingested. Since we have superior alternatives for every function wheat proteins serve, excluding gluten costs us nothing and removes a concern for those who need it.
What we use instead
Tocopherol provides our Vitamin E protection. Hydrolyzed Silk delivers superior conditioning in SILK NIACINAMIDE.
BPA (Bisphenol A)
What it is
An industrial chemical used in polycarbonate plastics and epoxy resins. Found in packaging, containers, and some cosmetic product housings. Classified as an endocrine-disrupting chemical.
Why brands use it
BPA makes plastic clear, strong, and impact-resistant. It is cheap to manufacture and widely used in consumer product packaging, including some cosmetic containers and pump mechanisms.
Why we left it out
BPA mimics estrogen and can leach from packaging into the product it holds, especially over time or with temperature changes. The EU banned BPA from baby bottles in 2011 and from all food contact materials in 2024. For a product that sits on your skin for hours, we believe the container matters as much as the formula. Our dispenser is 100% BPA-free.
What we use instead
Our airless dispenser uses PP (Polypropylene) for the inner cartridge and ABS for the outer shell. Both are BPA-free, phthalate-free, and FDA-approved for food contact. The formula never touches anything that could leach endocrine disruptors.
The shortest ingredient list is the hardest to formulate.
When you only have seven ingredients, each one is exposed. There are no fillers to hide behind, no thickeners to mask texture problems, no fragrance to cover formulation compromises. Every ingredient must perform. Every concentration must be precise. Every interaction must be tested.
This is only possible because the formula and the dispenser were developed as one system. Our airless precision pump protects the actives from air, light, and contamination, eliminating the need for additional stabilizers, antioxidant boosters, or preservative reinforcements that longer ingredient lists require.
That is why Claudia spent five years developing these formulas in her treatment room, not in a marketing department. The decisions on this page are not trends. They are convictions, born from 30 years of professional skincare expertise and 10,000 real treatments.
Less, but better, is more.