Full Ingredient Transparency
Formulated Without
14 categories of ingredients you will not find in any 1st Beauty Lab product, and why.
Most serums contain 20 to 40 ingredients. Ours contain seven to nine. That is not a limitation, it is a decision. Every ingredient we include has a specific, proven function. Every ingredient we exclude was a deliberate choice, made over five years of real-world testing in Claudia's treatment room in Vienna.
This page explains what we formulated without, why other brands use these ingredients, and why we chose differently. These are formulation choices, not safety warnings about other products.
Fragrance (Parfum)
What it is
A catch-all term that can represent hundreds of undisclosed synthetic chemicals. EU law requires labelling only 26 specific allergens. Everything else can stay hidden behind a single word on the INCI list.
Why brands use it
It makes products smell appealing. Scent triggers emotion and brand recognition. Some brands build their entire identity around a signature fragrance.
Why we left it out
Fragrance allergy affects up to 4.5% of the general population and 8 to 15% of people with contact dermatitis. The risk increases with age and cumulative exposure - exactly the profile of our customers. Claudia has seen fragrance reactions in her treatment room for thirty years. When your product contains only seven ingredients, we chose not to include one that serves marketing rather than skin.
What we use instead
Our serums smell like what they are: cosmetic-grade actives in purified water. No masking fragrance needed.
Essential Oils
What it is
Concentrated plant extracts (lavender, tea tree, rose, citrus) that contain potent volatile compounds. Often marketed as "natural" alternatives to synthetic fragrance.
Why brands use it
They carry a "clean beauty" halo. Consumers associate plant-derived ingredients with safety. Some oils also have mild antimicrobial or soothing properties.
Why we left it out
Natural does not mean non-irritating. Essential oils contain known sensitizers like linalool, limonene, citral, and eugenol. Research shows they can cause the same allergic contact dermatitis as synthetic fragrance. We chose efficacy and tolerance over the appeal of plant-derived marketing.
What we use instead
The only plant-derived component in our line is Tocopherol (Vitamin E), selected for its antioxidant function, not its scent.
Parabens
What it is
A family of preservatives (methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, and others) used since the 1950s to prevent microbial growth in cosmetics. They are widely studied and have a long track record.
Why brands use it
They are cheap, effective, and well-studied broad-spectrum preservatives. The cosmetics industry has relied on them for decades.
Why we left it out
We chose Phenoxyethanol and Ethylhexylglycerin as our preservation system. They are effective, well-tolerated, and compatible with our minimal-ingredient approach. Combined with our airless dispenser that eliminates air and contamination exposure, this preservation system keeps the formula stable throughout its shelf life without requiring additional preservative classes.
What we use instead
Phenoxyethanol and Ethylhexylglycerin across all three serums. SILK NIACINAMIDE adds Sodium Benzoate for extra stability alongside its bio-based Pentylene Glycol.
Silicones
What it is
Synthetic polymers (dimethicone, cyclomethicone, cyclopentasiloxane) derived from silica. They form a smooth, silky film on the skin's surface.
Why brands use it
They make products feel luxurious and spreadable. They temporarily blur pores and fine lines, and they help foundations and primers glide on. Brands love them because they create an instant sensory improvement.
Why we left it out
Our serums are designed to deliver active ingredients into the skin, not to coat the surface. Silicones create a sensory film that does not deliver measurable hydration or nutrients. For a formula built around three molecular weights of Hyaluronic Acid, we chose ingredients that work at multiple skin depths rather than on the surface.
What we use instead
Our serums use Sodium Hyaluronate at three molecular weights for real, measurable hydration at multiple skin depths, not a temporary cosmetic effect.
Phthalates
What it is
A group of industrial plasticizers (DBP, DEHP, DEP) used in cosmetics to help fragrances last longer and to increase product flexibility. Often hidden within the "fragrance" disclosure, so they may not appear on the label at all.
Why brands use it
They make fragrance stick to skin. DEP is one of the most common fixatives in perfumery. They are also found in nail polish (DBP) and some hair sprays.
Why we left it out
DBP, BBP, and DEHP are already banned from cosmetics under EU Regulation 1223/2009. Because we use no fragrance, we have no need for fixatives - which eliminates the primary exposure pathway for phthalates in skincare. This is a natural consequence of our fragrance-free formulation, not a separate decision.
What we use instead
No fragrance means no fixatives means no phthalate pathway. The simplicity of our formula is the safeguard.
Mineral Oils
What it is
Petroleum-derived hydrocarbons (Paraffinum Liquidum, Petrolatum, Mineral Oil) used as cheap occlusive moisturizers. They form a waterproof film on skin to reduce moisture loss.
Why brands use it
They are extremely inexpensive, stable, and effective at preventing trans-epidermal water loss. They have been a staple of pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations for over a century.
Why we left it out
Our formulas are built around active delivery - ingredients that hydrate within the skin, not on top of it. Mineral oils provide occlusion (sealing moisture in) but do not deliver active ingredients. Since every ingredient in our formula must serve a specific function beyond barrier coating, we chose plant-derived humectants that bind and deliver moisture actively.
What we use instead
Glycerin and Propylene Glycol provide moisture-binding and delivery functions. Sodium Hyaluronate draws and holds water naturally.
PEGs (Polyethylene Glycols)
What it is
Petroleum-based compounds used as emulsifiers, thickeners, solvents, and penetration enhancers. Over 600 different PEG variants exist in cosmetics. They appear as PEG followed by a number (PEG-40, PEG-100, etc.) on ingredient lists.
Why brands use it
They are versatile workhorses: they dissolve ingredients, stabilize emulsions, and enhance the absorption of other actives. They are cheap and effective.
Why we left it out
Our water-based formulations do not require emulsifiers or solvent systems. We select actives for their own bioavailability and solubility. In a seven-ingredient formula, we simply do not need ingredients whose primary role is to make complex multi-ingredient formulations work.
What we use instead
Our water-based formulations are inherently compatible. Actives are selected for their own solubility and bioavailability.
Sulfates
What it is
Surfactants (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate) primarily used in cleansers, shampoos, and foaming products.
Why brands use it
They create rich foam that consumers associate with cleansing power. They are extremely effective at removing oil and dirt, and extremely cheap.
Why we left it out
Our serums are leave-on treatments, not cleansers. Surfactants are designed to remove substances from skin - the opposite of what a hydration serum does. Including them in a leave-on product would work against the formula's purpose.
What we use instead
Our serums are leave-on treatments, not cleansers. There is no need for surfactants of any kind.
Alcohol (Denat.)
What it is
Denatured ethanol, also listed as Alcohol Denat., SD Alcohol, or Isopropyl Alcohol. Used as a solvent and to create a fast-drying, lightweight feel. Not to be confused with fatty alcohols (cetyl, cetearyl), which are moisturizing.
Why brands use it
It makes products feel weightless and non-greasy. It also acts as a penetration enhancer, helping other ingredients absorb quickly. Some brands use it to create mattifying formulas.
Why we left it out
Ethanol evaporates quickly and can compromise the skin's lipid barrier with repeated use. For a hydration serum designed to support barrier function, we chose to achieve lightweight absorption through molecular weight optimization rather than solvents.
What we use instead
Our formulas absorb cleanly through precise concentrations and molecular weight optimisation, not through solvents that strip the skin to create a false sense of lightness.
Microplastics
What it is
Tiny synthetic polymer particles (polyethylene, polypropylene, nylon) added to cosmetics as exfoliants, film-formers, texture agents, or encapsulation materials. Once washed off, they enter waterways permanently.
Why brands use it
They provide consistent texture, controlled-release delivery, and uniform appearance. Microbeads create a smooth exfoliating experience. Microplastics also stabilize formulations and extend shelf life.
Why we left it out
Microplastics do not biodegrade. They accumulate in marine ecosystems, freshwater, soil, and ultimately in the food chain, including human tissue. The EU adopted Regulation 2023/2055 restricting intentionally added microplastics, with phased bans running through 2035 for cosmetics. We did not wait for legislation. Our serums have never contained synthetic polymer particles, and they never will.
What we use instead
Our airless pump dispenser eliminates the need for stabilizers or texture-modifying particles. The formula is designed to be effective as a liquid, not as a vehicle for plastic.
Artificial Thickeners
What it is
Synthetic gelling agents (Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) and other rheology modifiers used to give products a rich, creamy consistency. Many are acrylic acid polymers.
Why brands use it
Consumers equate thick texture with quality and concentration. Thickeners also improve product stability on shelves and make formulas easier to apply. They are inexpensive fillers that increase perceived value.
Why we left it out
Our serums are optimised for absorption and efficacy, not texture. The lightweight, elegant consistency comes from the actives themselves - concentrated Sodium Hyaluronate at 2.5% provides natural viscosity. Adding thickeners would pad the ingredient list without contributing to what the serum actually does for your skin.
What we use instead
The natural viscosity of concentrated Sodium Hyaluronate at 2.5% provides the right texture. Glycerin and Propylene Glycol contribute body without artificial thickening.
Colorants
What it is
Synthetic dyes (CI numbers, FD&C colors) or pigments added to give products an appealing colour. Ranges from subtle tints to vivid hues.
Why brands use it
Colour creates shelf appeal and brand identity. Some brands use colour to mask ingredient discoloration.
Why we left it out
Colorants have zero skincare function. Our serums are clear to slightly amber depending on the active ingredients - their natural appearance reflects their composition.
What we use instead
Transparency. Our serums' natural appearance reflects their composition honestly.
Gluten
What it is
Wheat-derived proteins and hydrolyzed wheat compounds (Triticum Vulgare, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein) sometimes used in skincare for their film-forming and moisturizing properties.
Why brands use it
Hydrolyzed wheat protein provides conditioning and smoothing effects. Wheat germ oil is used for its Vitamin E content. These ingredients are cheap and multifunctional.
Why we left it out
Topical gluten exposure is not a concern for most people. However, some of our customers with celiac disease or gluten sensitivity prefer to avoid any contact with wheat-derived ingredients. Since we have alternatives for every function wheat proteins serve, excluding gluten costs us nothing and removes a concern for those who need it.
What we use instead
Tocopherol provides our Vitamin E protection. Hydrolyzed Silk delivers superior conditioning in SILK NIACINAMIDE.
BPA (Bisphenol A)
What it is
An industrial chemical used in polycarbonate plastics and epoxy resins. Found in packaging, containers, and some cosmetic product housings.
Why brands use it
BPA makes plastic clear, strong, and impact-resistant. It is cheap to manufacture and widely used in consumer product packaging, including some cosmetic containers and pump mechanisms.
Why we left it out
For a product that sits on your skin for hours, we believe the container matters as much as the formula. We selected packaging materials that meet the highest food-contact safety standards.
What we use instead
Our airless dispenser uses PP (Polypropylene) for the inner cartridge and ABS for the outer shell. Both are FDA-approved for food contact.
The shortest ingredient list is the hardest to formulate.
When you only have seven ingredients, each one is exposed. There are no fillers to hide behind, no thickeners to mask texture problems, no fragrance to cover formulation compromises. Every ingredient must perform. Every concentration must be precise. Every interaction must be tested.
This is only possible because the formula and the dispenser were developed as one system. Our airless precision pump protects the actives from air, light, and contamination, eliminating the need for additional stabilizers, antioxidant boosters, or preservative reinforcements that longer ingredient lists require.
That is why Claudia spent five years developing these formulas in her treatment room, not in a marketing department. The decisions on this page are not trends. They are convictions, born from 30 years of professional skincare expertise and 10,000 real treatments.
Less, but better, is more.
Three serums. One system.
Use one, or combine two. The serums are formulated to work independently and together.
Anti-Aging Hyaluron face serum
HYALURON PURE
High-dose deep hydration that your skin can actually absorb.
Anti-Aging Hyaluron face serum
COLLAGEN INFUSION
Deep hydration with marine collagen for skin that feels firmer and more resilient.
Anti-Aging Hyaluron face serum
SILK NIACINAMIDE
Hydrolyzed silk and niacinamide for skin that glows and looks visibly refined.